Origin
Pearl harvests are often mixed and consolidated to increase matching opportunities and the story behind them is lost as it changes hands. We curate single origin loose pearls, matchings, and strands which details can be uploaded on Provenance Proof blockchain platform and passed on for generations to come.
HABITAT
SALTWATER / FRESHWATER
Saltwater pearls form in oysters feeding on plankton in the ocean. Freshwater pearls grow in mussels in rivers, ponds and lake and use feeds from other agriculture or aquaculture by-products.
PEARL CATEGORY
BEAD CULTURED / NON-BEAD CULTURED / NATURAL
Cultured pearls formation is triggered by the insertion of a bead nuclei and soft tissue. This operation is called seeding or grafting. Natural pearls do not require human intervention.
PEARL TYPE
AKOYA / SOUTH SEA / TAHITIAN BLACK/ FRESHWATER / MABE...
Colour, size, shape, surface, lustre can be influenced by pearl farmers, but will always reflect the typical range of the oyster or mussel the pearl was harvested from.
SHELL SPECIES
P. MAXIMA / P. MARGARITIFERA / P. FUCATA / H. CUMMINGI…ETC.
Virtually any mollusc can bear a pearl, but only a few are suitable for pearl farming and usually grow in specific areas. Salinity, PH, temperature, and nutrient flow all influence their growth
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
AUSTRALIA / CHINA / FRENCH POLYNESIA / INDONESIA / JAPAN / PHILIPPINES…ETC.
Human and natural resources regulations and management may vary greatly between country of origin, but good pearls often reflect best practices and can come from anywhere.
PROVENANCE PROOF
YES / NO
Special pearls -or assets- can be uploaded at origin upon request and every transformation and/ or transfer of ownership tracked on this blockchain based immutable ledger: Provenance Proof.
Quality
Pearlers and traders developed grading systems specific to the type of pearl they harvest and sell. We describe our pearls using a universal classification system derived from the Gemmological Institute of America ’s (GIA) 7 Pearl Value Factors and the World Jewellery Confederation's (CIBJO) pearl guide.
GRADE
GEM / FINE / JEWELLERY
Grade combines lustre, surface, and nacre criteria. Gems are collectors’ items. Fine pearls suit "haute" jewellery and one-of-a-kind creations. Jewellery grade pearls for repeat designs and strands.
PEARL(S)
WORK
UNDRILLED / DRILL / HALF-DRILLED
The most common way to integrate pearls into jewellery is to drill and glue them. Please inquire for any drilling services as this requires specifi skills and equipment.
PRODUCT
SINGLE / PAIR / TRIO / SET / STRAND / LOT
SIZE
2 DECIMALS MILLIMETERS
For singles pearls: 2 measurements for off-round, 1 for round (always narrowest section). For matchings: 1 measurement for each pearl. For strands, 1 measurement for largest & smallest pearls.
WEIGHT
2 DECIMALS GRAMS
All units are converted to grams for convenience purpose. For reference, one (Japanese) momme = 3.75g, one (diamond) carat = 0.1g and one (natural pearl) grain = 0.065
SHAPE
ROUND / OVAL-DROP / BUTTON / BAROQUE / CIRCLE
Each pearl shape is an invitation to create unique pieces. Spherical shapes usually command a higher value. Their nacre structure usually refracts light better AND they are easier to set.
COLOUR
WHITE / SILVER / GOLD / BLACK / PEACOCK...
Each mollusc species creates pearls within different colour ranges suitable to specific complexions and personal preferences. Onegemme only offers pearls of natural colour.
OVERTONE
PINK / GREEN / ORANGE / RED
Overtone is the most elusive pearl value factor as it is described as structural colour. It is not induced by a pigment but rather a prismatic effect as light go through nacre layers.
LUSTRE
EXCELLENT / VERY GOOD / GOOD / FAIR / POOR
Lustre reveals the regularity of the outer layers of the nacre forming a pearl. It can be appreciated by gaging the sharpness of light reflected at the surface of the pearl.
SURFACE
CLEAN / VERY LIGHTLY BLEMISHED / LIGHTLY BLEMISHED / MODERATELY BLEMISHED / HEAVILY BLEMISHED
Also referred to as cleanliness, surface is evaluated both by the depth, % coverage and spread of natural imperfections. The surface of a pearl cannot be perfect due to the organic nature of nacre.
NACRE
EXCELLENT / VERY GOOD / GOOD / FAIR / POOR
Nacre is the canvas of all other attributes. It refers to thickness and/ or under surface disruptions of nacre flow. "Shark skin", "hammer mark" or "shimi" in Japanese are also used by the trade.
PURITY
NATURAL COLOR & LUSTER / NATURAL COLOR
Pearls are the only gems coming from living organisms. Unlike coral, they require minimal processing to reveal their natural beauty and can often be used as they are harvested.
MATCHING
EXCELLENT / VERY GOOD / GOOD / FAIR / POOR/ NOT APPLICABLE
The whole is always greater to the sum of the parts when it comes to pearls. Matching pearls increases their value exponentially especially as quality increases.
LENGTH
Fashion usually talks here, but smaller pearls are better suited for longer strands. For reference, a Choker measures 35-41cm, Princess 43-48cm, Matinee 51-61cm and Opera 71-91cm.
BREAKDOWN
This provides details on the distribution of size within a lot of homogeneous pearls.
Impact
Molluscs are filter-feeders, their survival and growth make them bioindicators and bio-monitors of ecosystems health. We select our suppliers based on their commitment to extend molluscs multiple services to ecosystems and support them on their Environmental, Social and Governance (ESG) journey. Until a global impact certification framework is in place, we acknowledge our suppliers based on the regulatory environment they operate within, their commitments to and how they assess their impact. For more information about pearl impact assessment contact@onegemme.com.
AWARE
Pearlers and pearl farmers who took steps to self-assess their social and environmental impact. They usually operate under an internal quality and productivity driven code of practice.
ENGAGED
Pearlers and pearl farmers who are taking action to improve their social and environmental impact. They typically operate under a sector code of practice and/ or run sustainability projects.
CERTIFIED
Pearlers and pearl farmers who commit to impact measurable targets assessed by a 3rd party. They typically operate under global code of conducts and subject themselves to regular audits.